Albania is full of surprises. I was in some hot springs this morning. Alban, my voluntary tour guide, was watching over me so I do not faint... Prolonged exposure to sulfur can do funny things... He insisted on riding pillion without a helmet. "Go like Valentino Rossi!" is all he kept saying. I wonder how Rossi would ride on these horrible roads with so much load. A few short wheelies is all I could do to please him. Now I'm on top of a mountain pass near the Macedonian border. There are cement military machine gun aprons around. Goats have ...Read More

It's raining again. Packing a wet tent is not a good idea if you plan to use it in the long run. Things take a moment to get soaked, but hours to dry. Rain means waiting. But waiting means writing. So it's not too bad. I'm now in a campground a few kilometers shy of Cannes. There are two German GS riders in the tent next to me. They're also held back by the rain. I tried to fix the GPS mount couple of times. Last time, I managed to think about the fuse... And yes, it was blown. Apparently I ...Read More